We board the train for St Petersburg departing Moscow at 9:30 am. I have never taken a train before and have no idea what to expect. The ride is nine hours, and I’d gotten only five hours of sleep the night before so all I am hoping for is a bed. Kira, Cybelle (from Kansas City), Slava (from the office), and I board the train and find out compartments. Four pull down beds--jackpot. We open them, lay down the mattresses and sheets, and survey our handiwork--feels like we’re spending the next nine hours at summer camp. But it’s comfy enough, and we take off our shoes and settle in.
The train has not even pulled out of the station when Slava begins to spread a rather impressive selection of groceries on the table between the bunks: yogurt, cheese, bread, ham, apples, chocolates, tea bags, and instant coffee.
“Eat, eat. Everyone should eat something.” He tells us gesturing at the food.
It’s a little early for us, and Slava seems frustrated by our lack of appetite. I have flashbacks of car trips of my childhood, my mother insisting that everyone eat the fruit she brought “Do you want an apple A pear? A plum?” She’d ask approximately every twenty minutes, “We have to eat it, before we get over the border! Have some fruit!” She’s insist, and there would be four kids trying to choke down their ration of two pieces of produce before arrival in Grand Forks, which was less than two hours away from the house. To this day, I don’t understand why we even brought it; I suspect that it may have just been her trick to get us to eat fruit because as a child I was positive that something horrible would happen at the border if we were caught smuggling the banana I did not eat. Well played, Mum.
I opt instead for a little Anna Karenina and a nap before my lunch. And for the hour of day to be at least in the double digits.
***
Slava, at our request, tells us some stories about Baba Yaga, and I think to myself that if we put a flashlight under his chin, our little summer-camp scenario would finally be complete.
One more little nap in the rocking womb of the train car, and it’s tine to wake--we’re in St Pete’s!
***
I step off the train and am immediately hit by one thought--cold. It is so much colder in St Petersburg than it is in Moscow. I quick look at the digital read on the platform tells me that it’s actually hovering around zero, but it feels much worse than that. It is a city built on rivers, so the dampness and the wind make for a completely different feeling. A bad one. This is not helped at all by the fact that it is raining.
We head for the subway station and wait to buy tickets. Stuck in the long line (presumably because the train emptied) Slava leans over and tells us to watch out purses. “People will steal your money here,” he warns us. “Be careful.” I wonder if anyone had ever pointed out to him that he lives in Moscow, and that there are, indeed, pickpockets in the worlds fifteenth largest city. But he insists that pickpockets are rampant here. As I secure my purse for his sake, I realise that I cannot find my passport. Frantic that I lost it on the train, Kira and I squat in the middle of the St Pete’s metro station, and methodically go through my purse and luggage compartments one by one. It is found after way too much panic.
We board the metro and go off in search of the private flat we rented for the weekend.
***
After a 25 minute walk in the rain, wind, and pitch black night, we arrive at the apartment building. “Please, at least say zdrasvutye, to the woman” Slava pleads, “You might not be Russian, but she should not think that you are rude.“ We debate saying it in unison so that she thinks we’re crazy, but a reproachful look from Slava reminds us that St Petersburg is totally booked for the long weekend and we can’t afford to unnerve anybody. A young woman of about five feet lets us into the building at to the elevator. Two months ago, I’d have called the place “dodgy,” but now I’d say it’s “Russian.” Or as the Russians call it, “sovietsky” (Soviet era). We enter a tiny elevator, all five of us and our luggage, and emerge in a barely larger hallway. There are four flats on this floor, and if one door is totally open, the neighbour’s door cannot open at all. Even by sovietsky standards, this gets a giggle out of me.
Turns out that the woman lives in the flat with her two very young sons who are extremely cute. They are going to Paris for the weekend, they tell us, and will be back on Monday at noon to collect the key. Please feed the cat.
Umm--cat?
We begin to unpack in the small, neat, if kinda funky-smelling apartment. As I go through my luggage, I notice that my camera battery charger is rolled in a neat bundle right where I left it last--on the bed back in Moscow. Kira promises to take pictures of whatever I want with her camera. I go to change my clothes for dinner slightly appeased as Kira and Cybelle go in search of the elusive cat. From the bedroom, I am griping about the lost opportunities to take pictures of whatever I want in one of the most picturesque cities in the world.
“I mean, really,” I grumble as I open the door, “Nothing else could have effed up sightseeing in St Petes more.” And with these poorly chosen words, a lightening quick, massive black cat attacks my foot and does not let go. I manage to kick it off, but he has already drawn blood, and earned my hate for the rest of the trip. An infected foot may indeed be worse for sightseeing than a dead camera battery. Before dinner, I quickly look up the Russian word for “tetnus.” I will summarily spend the rest of the weekend missing my hand-sized kittens and standing on the bed and on chairs in this flat, brandishing a stick that dear Kira found to ease my mind and ensure my safety.
But we are not here to spend the weekend in an apartment with a giant (evil, mean-spirited, violent) cat. We have St Petersburg to see…
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